Table of Contents
GY6 150cc Ruckus Swap Guide
We’ve all had and still might even have, the little Ruckus that could. Everything you throw at it, new exhaust, better CDI, new air filter, bigger carburetor but still not fast enough. So how do we get it faster? Great question, doing a GY6 150cc Ruckus swap might be just for you. We here at DROWsports try our best to make the learning and building process easy to understand. This guide is only to help you understand how to start building and piecing together correct parts. Putting this swap together takes some knowledge, wrenching skills, and tools. This is only a guide for purchasing the correct parts and understanding.
Use our build template from our DROWsports GY6 150cc Swap Kit for Non-Fatty Tire to follow along. Keep in mind these are our suggestions and recommendations, the items we listed are ones we have found to work most optimal for us.
GY6 150 Long Case Engine/Motor
The building block to this project starts off with this A-Case Engine. A simple GY6 150cc engine, but a complete engine that is capable of many future upgrades and modifications. Since the motor is a 150cc you will get much more power than the Stock GET engine, a much better improvement.
Swap Mount Kit
The motor mount kit is a key component in creating your ultimate Ruckus. The mount kit will space out the rear wheel to fit different sizes. As a result, it can fit either a skinny wheel, 7″ fatty wheel, or 8″ inch fatty wheel depending on the mount. While the mount kit spaces out the wheels properly, it also pushes the motor further back for the engine to actually clear the frame.
Swap Wire Harness
Electrical components are key to keeping your GY6 150cc Swap Ruckus running without issues. We recommend always buying quality built wire harness’s and not cut up OEM ones. In addition, we sell all the extra required components that perfectly fit the Dan Max Wire Harness. This includes the stator, starter relay/solenoid, ignition coil, and CDI.
DROWsports Plug-n-Play Harness
Our homemade Plug-N-Play Harness is the ultimate pre-made wire harness that works with the Dan Max Wire Harness. The harness will plug directly into the OEM Honda Ruckus left side control, headlight, ignition, tail light and also plug into the GY6 11 Pole Stator. This will definitely get rid of all the electrical headaches.
Carburetor
Our website offers several different carburetors but we’ve narrowed it down for you! We offer the original GY6 150cc Stock Carburetor with a removable bowl for changing jets or a fixed bowl. We do offer a much better quality OKO PWK but the best alternative is the Stage6 R/T MKII PWK Racing Carburetor. The Stage6 Features high-quality casting and a smoother finish.
Throttle & Control
There are various types of throttles and controls exist but will have to be wired up to work. You can stick with the OEM controls but recommend you buy a quality throttle control like the Stage6 Throttle with Switch Kit. The best part about Stage6 is each component is replaceable and can be bought separately like the throttle housing, throttle cable, throttle tube, and switch.
Fuel & Intake
The fuel & air intake make up several different components, each one crucial to help your GY6 150cc Ruckus Swap run smooth.
A set of Main Jets, Slow Jets, and Needles are required to tune the scooter for the correct AFR. Tuning is a difficult process and will not be for everyone. While tuning is hard, with some patience and maybe a little cheat sheet, it can be done fairly easily. But rather than make life difficult take it to a shop to get it tuned!
Mikuni Fuel Pump is the best replacement and a much more affordable alternative to the OEM Honda. A vacuum is created to flow the fuel from the gas tank to the carburetor. Since the Mikuni uses a vacuum, there will be no damage from running out of gas.
Our DROWsports Ruckus Mikuni Pump & Ignition Coil Bracket is a must have for anyone who is looking for a clean and organized Ruckus.
The machined GY6 Performance Aluminum Intake Manifold will be needed when replacing the carburetor. The aftermarket Mikuni/Keihin carburetors will not fit the OEM GY6 manifold.
The carburetor on the GY6 150cc almost always sits at a strange angle that makes it difficult to work on. The GY6 150cc Angled Clocking Flange will set the carburetor at a proper angle and makes it easier to re-jet and add different size air filters.
While there are numerous air filters available with different sizes and diameter. We’ve tried our best to pick the ultimate filter fitment. As a result of our R&D, we recommend using the UNI Air Filter Two Stage POD with a 15 Degree Angle of 2″ diameter.
Suspension & Transmission
The suspension is always a key component when setting up a vehicle for cruising or racing. Even in a small motor scooter, the suspension will help get your scooter set up leveled and riding right.
The front end and rear end suspension work together to keep your Ruckus sitting level. Due to the new motor, the rear end sits further back creating a slightly lowered and much more stretched scooter. Therefore we recommend using the Ruckus Stance Low Down Rear Shock. The front end forks go hand in hand with the front disc conversion kit. While you most likely will need a front disc conversion like the Ruckus Front End Disc Brake Kit. The NCY Honda Ruckus Slammed Front Forks is one of the best options to go with if you have your own disc conversion setup.
The transmission makes your vehicle run, so it should be no surprise that you would have to set it up. These items are crucial but not difficult to install.
Due to the GY6 150cc motor being just a motor, you will need a few parts. A GY6 150cc Short Axle, Rear Wheel Axle Nut M16x1.5, and a Final Drive Cover Gasket. The gasket will seal the transmission properly. The GY6 150cc engine has a dual rear shock setup and will be converted to a single rear shock setup with the GY6 150 Short axle.
Front Brake Conversion
Braking is very important part of building a fast GY6 150cc Ruckus. As a result of faster speeds, you will need stronger braking because drum brakes will not cut it. A Ruckus Front End Disc Brake Kit is your ticket to better braking power. While there are many options we recommend leaving everything checked off. As a result, you will have much more stopping power. The kit also includes the front forks, brake lines, rotor, and master cylinder, but not a wheel.
Rear Brake
Another thought that does not cross many peoples mind is cable length. Braking is extremely important even if it is just a drum brake. Therefore we’ve added an Extended Rear Brake Cable into the kit and different lengths depending on your stretch length. While the rear drum brake will work(barely enough), we recommend upgrading your rear brake setup with the FLP GY6 Rear Disc Conversion.
Exhaust
Sourcing exhausts that will fit a Fatty Swap are fairly difficult. Since we have had trouble in the past we put together our own exhaust just for Fatty Swaps. DROWsports GY6 Skinny, 7″ Fatty, and 8″ Fatty are stainless steel exhausts for Skinny Tire, 7″ Fatty Tire, and 8″ Fatty tire. The exhausts fit each type of wheel size and mount kit. This is due to the wheel spacing hitting the brackets.
Wheels & Tires
Wheels are a very touchy subject and each person has their own opinion on what is the best wheel and tire combo. As a result, we recommend Machined Machine wheels because they offer a huge selection. Due to the wheel size 3+4 offset for a 7″ Fatty or 3+5 for 8″ Fatty, the rim itself will require a Rear Wheel Hub. The offset determines the spacing required for the 7″ or 8″ Wheel to align in the center of the Ruckus. The typical rim size used would either be a 10″ or 12″, but 12″ seems to be more common. In conclusion 3+4 12″ wheel for 7″ Fatty and 3+5 12″ wheel for 8″ Fatty Confusing, hence our package trying to help make it a little more simple.
Since there are so many tires available, we will list just a few that many people love to throw on their bikes. The list only includes a few popular tires with great tread patterns and fantastic performance depending on your situation.
Michelin Boppers, Shink White Walls, Kenda Low Pro, Dunlop ScootSmart
Wheel sizing chart to determine proper fitment on Honda Ruckus and GY6 150cc Ruckus Swap. While there are more patterns available, we use the same each time for the best outcome. Different options include hub sizes, offsets and bolt patterns.
Honda Ruckus GY6 Non-Fatty Rear Wheel | ||
---|---|---|
GET 50cc | with/without stretch | 12×5, 3+2 offset 4×136 bolt pattern |
GY6 150cc | Non-Fatty (Custom Hub) | 12×5, 3+2 offset, 4×110 bolt pattern |
Honda Ruckus GY6 7″ Fatty Rear Wheel | ||
GY6 150cc | 7″ Fatty Mount | 12×7, 3+4 offset, 4×110 bolt pattern |
Zuma 125 | 7″ Fatty Mount | 12×7, 3+4 offset, 4×110 bolt pattern |
Honda Ruckus GY6 8″ Fatty Rear Wheel | ||
GET 50cc | 8″ Fatty Mount | 12×8, 3+5 offset, 4×136 bolt pattern |
GY6 150cc | 8″ Fatty Mount | 12×8, 3+5 offset, 4×110 bolt pattern |
Please be sure to comment, or contact us to let us know if you have any questions or comments!